Resultados da pesquisa por: elle

Pleasure to Meet: Smashbox

 

 

Smashbox has an intimate relationship with fashion and movies. The founders, brothers Davis and Dean, are great-grandsons of Max Factor, the legendary makeup artist that was responsible for the faces of all Hollywood stars and created the famous brand. Back in 1990, they created Smashbox Studios, a mix of studio, model agency and clothing label under the same roof. It was so successful that eventually they decided to expand and drinking from the family fountain seemed to be the natural step ahead. So, in 1996 Smashbox Cosmetics was born.

Obviously, the products USP had to be a ‘camera ready’ approach, such as the revolutionary Photo Finish Foundation Primer, launched in 2000, in a time no one had an idea what a primer was, the High Definition Healthy FX Foundation SPF 15 foundation and the Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder, both developed for HD cameras.  Other hits are the Camera Ready BB Cream, Be Legendary Lipstick and creamy blusher O-Glow Intuitive Cheek Color.

Since 2010, Smashbox is part of Estée Lauder Group and available in many countries. Here in the UK, it can be purchased online, at selected Boots and in the brand flagship in Fitzrovia. For me, the core value of the brand is to promote a flawless, although natural skin, perfect for HD cameras, social media filters and, of course, for real life too! Could it be more contemporary?

Wish list

smashbox-primer

Photo Finish Foundation Primer

smashbox-base

High Definition Healthy FX Foundation SPF 15 

smashbox-po

Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder 

smashbox-bb

Camera Ready BB Cream 

smashbox-blush

O-Glow Intuitive Cheek Color 

smashbox-batom

Be Legendary Lipstick

smashbox-halo

Halo Highlighting Wand

smashbox-baked

Baked Fusion Soft Lights

Brexit: Expectations about the Fashion Industry

Last Friday, I woke up with the sad news that UK chose to leave the European Union. Even though I wasn’t completely surprised, as the polls pointed to it, I hoped that in the end, the Remain would win by a tiny margin. Since then, the political and economic uncertainty mood took over, reinforced by lots of media drama, which doesn’t help to relieve a situation that claims for calmness, patience and rationality – ok, very hard to achieve when there is a million things to sort out, however, it is the shortest way to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

This post is a reflection about the perspectives of fashion and the creative industries, now worth £84.1 billion per year to the UK’s economy, with a growth rate two times higher than the overall economy. Unfortunately, it is one of the first to be weakened in moments of crisis. Add the fact that thousands of Europeans work in it, especially in London, and it is easy to visualise panic knocking on the door.  A poll made by the British Fashion Council revealed that 90% of the designers were in favour of staying in the EU. During the recent London Collections: Men they showed support with “Remain” T-shirts or posting their views on social media. Vivienne Westwood, Christopher Raeburn and Sibling were among them. Once the result was out, my Instagram timeline was inundated with pictures and messages posted by stylists, photographers, models, designers etc. regretting the outcomes. For most of them, and for who is looking from the outside, Brexit represents a vote against globalization and multiculturalism, two aspects deeply embedded in the fashion industry, where professionals and manufacturing come from diverse countries and products are sold around the world.

So, what happens next? It is still very early to tell as everything depends on the agreements the British government will settle with Europe. Right now, with the pound drop, shopping in London became cheaper and tourists can take even more advantage of the sales season. On the other hand, in the future, if European products suffer taxation, the city can lose its appeal as a shopping destination, since most of the brands, from luxury to fast-fashion, come from France, Italy, Spain and Sweden (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Prada, Zara e H&M, to name a few).

Another two great issues are education and entrepreneurship. Until now, in both under and graduate levels, European students pay the same amount as the British ones,  which is less than half of what people from outside the EU is charged. What will be the incentive to come over if they can go to Paris or Milan for a fraction of the price and stay legally after the course ends to pursue job opportunities or start a business? A real example: after my MA course (where in a class of about 30, only 4 people were British – that’s how internationalised the institutions are), all the Europeans who are creating a brand chose London as a base, since they can access intellectual and financial support programs for startups, most of them funded by the EU. The Centre for Fashion Enterprise, a kind of fashion incubator where I worked last year, is one of them – and relies on funding from Brussels.

The same principles can be applied in sectors such as design, architecture, arts, films, media and technology, especially in London where there is a huge market surrounding them. For these reasons, I believe that the best thing to do is having an optimistic view of the future and get together to fight for favourable agreements, as Rohan Silva, entrepreneur and founder of Second Home, a co-working space, suggested in this interview for Dezeen. On a personal level, I believe that the pressure from the economy and the financial market will prevail and in the end of the day it will be inevitable to ensure freedom of movement in order to get access to the single market, in other words, very few things will change.

I keep working on the development of my consulting company and dreaming about the day I’ll be able to hire a team and contribute to the growth and expansion of many brands. I’m not a helpless optimist, but I think the best answer for turbulent times is leaving fear behind and go after your projects with all the passion you have. Positive attitudes always open doors!

Illustrations: @andreaangeli_  and repost from @dianekruger 

Vintage Time: L’Oréal Exuberance

This Vintage Time is also a request for L’Oréal to bring it back! Launched in the mid-90s, Exuberance was a colour foam mousse that lasted more or less 7 washes. It had 12 shades, was super easy to use and a simple way to experiment with hair colouring.

I tried it when I was an exchange student in California and as my hair was practically colour-virgin back then, I loved to try a different look for a few days. Now I would be thrilled to apply it to conceal growing roots and to give an extra boost of colour. Yes, I know there are some good root retouch products in the market right now, but, sadly, they are not the same… So, L’Oréal, why not bring Exuberance back?

By the way, the TV ad had a familiar face with red hair: Dr. Meredith Grey (Ellen Pompeo), from Grey’s Anatomy!

Pleasure to Meet: Boscia

My first contact with Boscia products was in New York, in 2012, as one of those incredible samples you receive at Sephora. When I tried the charcoal based Detoxifying Black Cleanser I was amazed and immediately went online to search about the California brand. Boscia means Botanical Science with Advanced technology and it was originally developed in Japan, more than 30 years ago. Since 2002, the products are free from mineral oils, colourants, animal and synthetic ingredients.

The skincare line ranges from cleansers, moisturisers, exfoliants and masks formulated with jojoba leaf and willow herb, among many other natural and botanic actives. Besides the Detoxifying Cleanser, the Luminizing Black Mask and the No Pores No Shine T-Zone Treatment are great to diminish the appearance of large pores. Speaking of masks, they are a best-seller and include an oil control (Green Tea), calming (Cool Blue), brightening (Bright White), moisturising (Intensifying Moisture) and deep cleaning (Clarifying Detox) formulas.

Another must-haves are the BB Cream, in light or regular versions, and the Tsubaki Beauty Oil, that promises to protect the skin from free radicals and can be used under the makeup or at night, before bedtime. Other highlights: Konjac Cleansing Sponge, Self-Defense FPS 30 and Green Tea Blotting Linens.

Are you curious to try them? The sad news is that the line is only available in the US, Canada and some Asian countries, but you can buy online from American Sephora or Amazon UK (but only selected items). Maybe start with the travel kits and then pick your favourites!

Wish list

boscia-oil

Tsubaki Beauty Oil 

boscia-detoxifying

Detoxifying Black Cleanser

boscia-blackmask

Luminizing Black Mask 

boscia-nopores

No Pores No Shine T-Zone Treatment

boscia-bb

BB Cream Light Broad Spectrum SPF 27 PA++

boscia-eye

Super Cool De-Puffying Eye Balm 

The Fashion Critics that Still Matter

For many years, my dream job was to be a fashion journalist to review the shows. By reading the collections critiques and articles about the industry, I got a good part of my fashion culture and a great understanding of the business. However, as you know, things changed drastically in the last decade and the role of fashion journalism today is quite different, especially when shows are conceived more to get Insta-perfect images than perfect pieces for real life.

Nevertheless, if you work or want to work in fashion, reading what the top journalists are writing is still essential to develop a critical view. Here is the list of my favourites and where to find their articles (please, don’t just follow them on Instagram, right?)

Cathy Horyn: the former New York Times fashion critic and currently contributor of New York Magazine’s The Cut blog is famous for her direct and straightforward vision about a collection and for not going easy on her critique, which caused some notorious feuds with Giorgio Armani and Hedi Slimane.

Robin Givhan: thanks to her broad vision, always linking fashion to cultural issues, she received a Pulitzer Prize in 2006. With experiences at Vogue, Newsweek and The San Francisco Chronicle, she is The Washington Post fashion editor for more or less 10 years, on and off. The style analysis of political figures, such as Michelle Obama and Hillary Clinton, under a social-economic prism, only reinforces her prestige.

Tim Blanks: if you are old enough to remember the Canadian show Fashion File, you know how Tim is a walking encyclopaedia! And what to say about the Throwback Thursdays videos on Style.com remembering iconic 90s moments? At the extinct site or as Business of Fashion editor, his critiques can be subtly straightforward and embedded with references that range from fashion history to pop culture.

Vanessa Friedman: Cathy Horyn’s replacement on NY Times has worked for The Financial Times, Elle, InStyle and The Economist, which means that her vision aggregate economic aspects and the pragmatism of editing a contemporary wardrobe for women. For this reason, the articles are easy to read but present constant reflexions about the industry trends.

Sarah Mower: the English journalist is American Vogue contributor for years and fashion critic on its website since the days of Style.com. Even with the magazine’s “neutral” voice, Sarah is able to send a message with a delicate and intelligent approach. Her work for the British Fashion Council, as ambassador for NEWGEN, the project for up-and-coming designers, only adds to her views of the business.

Bridget Foley: she is one of the most low profile figures, holding a position at WWD for over 30 years. Her critiques are direct and inquisitive and the “Bridget Foley’s Diary” is a constant invitation to reflect on the current industry moods.

Suzy Menkes: obviously, she is a living legend, famous for her hair do and for the speed to write her eagerly awaited critiques. Even with an old school approach and fierce opinions about the industry compass and the pressure on designers, the former editor of The International Herald Tribune (now International New York Times) and current International Vogue editor, with articles published in the online editions, was among the first to embrace social media and new technologies, discussing them on her annual summit about luxury.

Alexander Fury: The Independent fashion editor is the voice of a new generation and is already recognized for his honest, even controversial opinions. With encyclopaedic references and a rather ironic tone, the articles (he also writes for other publications) are as informative as questioning.

Want to Try: Probiotic Skincare

If you are into healthy eating must probably have heard about the importance of probiotics, the good bacteria found in yoghurts and other fermented foods, like kombucha and kefir. There is scientific evidence that they help our digestion and even boost immunity. Now, research points out to probiotics being powerful ingredients in skincare!

Even though there is no proven results yes, some studies show that common skin problems such as acne, rosacea and eczema may be softened and aging signs reverted, as they act on skin PH, avoiding collagen and elastin breakdown. The cosmetics industry has already jumped into the bandwagon and launched versions of Danone’s Activia to the skin. A few brands went further and created their USPs around probiotics. Aurelia, Tula and Gallinée are good examples:

Aurelia Probiotic Skincare is an English company, founded in 2013 by Claire Vero, a dermatology expert with experience in very well-known pharmaceutical labs. The products are a mix of probiotics and botanic formulas and claim to reduce inflammation thus, the aging process.

Tula is an American brand created by gastroenterologist Roshini Raj. The name means balance in Sanskrit and the target is to nourish skin with the same ingredients that help our digestion.

Gallinée goes beyond probiotics, combining them with prebiotics (boost the growth of the former) and lactic acid (naturally produced by some of our good bacteria). Founded by French Doctor in Pharmacy Marie Drago, with funding from Kickstarter, the products aim to balance the skin PH and its microbiome, i.e., the bacteria that live around us.

With so many potential benefits, all I want is to try them as soon as possible!

Wish list

probiotics-clinique

Clinique Redness Solutions Daily Relief Cream

probiotics-aurelia

Aurelia Revitalise & Glow Serum 

probiotics-tula

Tula Purifying Face Cleanser

Gallinee_face_cream

Gallinée La Culture Hydrating Face Cream 

How Chanel 2.55 Bag Inspired a Trend

When Chanel created the iconic 2.55 bag, all she wanted was to free a woman’s hand from holding clutches. The rectangular, quilted model, with gold chain straps turned into a classic. However, along the tweed tailleur, for decades it was associated with rich and elegant ladies who lunch and even though it was very chic, wasn’t exactly cool. Then, in 2005, when it celebrated 50 years and during the it bag fever, Karl Lagerfeld decided that was time to revamp the 2.55 and make it coveted by grandmothers and granddaughters. With marketing campaigns and it girls holding them, it didn’t take long until the bag became as desired as a Birkin or a Kelly.

Ironically, not only Chanel relies on the model to be a best-seller. Many luxury brands got “inspired” and developed bags with gold chain straps and locks (most with the brand logo), rectangular shapes and frontal flap. In a quick search, I found quite a few 2.55 alike, from Gucci to Saint Laurent, from Stella McCartney and Mulberry to Proenza Schouler.

Do you think any of them overcomes the original?

From left to right: Valentino Lock medium, Stella McCartney Falabella shoulder bag, Saint Laurent Monogramme, Proenza Schouler  PS small, Mulberry Lily, Lanvin Jiji small,  Gucci Icon, Chloé Drew, Chanel 2.55 and Coco with the original bag.

Who’s Who: Kevyn Aucoin

You may have heard or tried one of the products that carries his name, but did you know that Kevyn Aucoin is one of the most celebrated makeup artists of all time? His life story could be a Hollywood movie: small town boy from Louisiana goes to New York to try a career in the beauty industry. Even with little experience doing make-up, his talent is so outstanding that in a matter of months he becomes one of Steven Meisel’s protégés. Moreover, the legendary photographer Irving Penn requests him in many shootings for Vogue. Another successful American dream! Kevyn was also the favourite of Tina Turner, Liza Minelli, Cher, Janet Jackson and all the supermodels of the 1980s and 90s. Gwyneth Paltrow, Madonna, Julia Roberts, Barbra Streissand, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington… The “fan & friends” list goes on and on. Worth noting is the fact that he liked to have them lay down, with a pillow to support the head whilst he was doing the makeup, preferably with some relaxing music from his playlist.

As Nicole Kidman said, Kevyn’s makeup was magical. Just take a look at the pictures above, of celebs turned into iconic stars. They are part of “Making Faces” and “Face Forward”, (his first book was “The Art of Makeup and he also has a bio: Kevyn Aucoin: A Beautiful Life”). Unfortunately, Kevyn left us way too soon (in 2002, age 40, after an accidental overdose of painkillers to relieve the pain from a rare disease) but his influence is still strong. He defined the natural look of the 90s with a line of nude products for Ultima II, in 1988. His namesake line arrived in 2001 and is a total cult, with best sellers like the Sculpting and Celestial Powders, to contour and highlight (available in the UK at Space NK and Cult Beauty, among others). They may not have the power to transform you as Kevyn did, but it’s a start…

Note: if you still can’t figure out who is who, here are the answers: Kate Moss channelling the Biba look, Isabella Rossellini as Sophia Loren, Julianne Moore as Twiggy, Christy Turlington as Marisa Berenson, Julia Roberts as Julie Christie, Winona Ryder as Elizabeth Taylor in “Cat in a Hot Tin Roof” and Gwyneth Paltrow as Faye Dunaway in “Bonnie & Clyde”. 

Pleasure to Meet: Fresh

The first product from Fresh  that I tried was the Sugar Lip Treatment, that I got as a sample at Sephora and immediately fell in love with. I hate the feeling of dry lips and have tested tons of lip balms but  this really stood out as the moisture effect lasts for hours! The tinted versions are perfect to replace lipstick or gloss (mine is Rosé).

Then, I bought the Seaberry Restorative Body Cream and was also love at first sight, I mean, application! The lotion has omegas 3,6,7 and 9, some antioxidants and is easily absorbed. So now Fresh is one of my favourite prestige brands and my wish list just grows…

If you don’t know it yet, the company, part of LVMH, was founded 22 years ago in Boston by Lev Glazman and Alina Roytberg, who just wanted to create a line of artisanal soaps (the best-seller Oval Soap Collection). Because they were very curious and interested in testing natural ingredients, one thing led to another and soon ranges made with sugar, soy, milk and rice were available.

All of them are hits and keep the brand philosophy of promoting sensorial experiences that are both indulgent and efficient. One of the best examples is the Crème Ancienne, a formula inspired in the first certified lotion to renew the skin, used in the 2nd Century by physician and emperor Marcus Aurelius. Lev and Aline went all the way to the Czech Republic and searched in monasteries to find the right ingredient list. Can you see why the products are real indulgences?

In the US, Fresh has its own stores in cities like New York, Boston, Los Angeles and Las Vegas and is available at Sephora, Barneys and Neiman Marcus. Here in London, there are shops in Marylebone, Covent Garden and inside Harrods, besides the e-commerce. Check it out: www.fresh.com/UK

Wish list

fresh-sugarose
Sugar Rose Lip Treatment SPF 15

fresh-brownsugar
Brown Sugar Body Polish

fresh-seaberry
Seaberry Restorative Body Cream

fresh-lotus
Lotus Youth Preserve Face Cream

fresh-elixir
Elixir Ancien

fresh-umbrianclay
Umbrian Clay Mattifying Skincare Set

Vintage Time: Sun In

Sun-In was one of these products that you asked every friend or relative that travelled to the US back in the 80s or early 90s to bring. The spray gave a sun-kissed look to the hair without the need of staying in the beach for hours (and frying your skin). I was 11 or 12 when my mother brought it from a trip to Orlando. You needed to spray it sparingly and then blow dry, so the heat would activate the bleaching effect.

I never cared to learn what was in the formula, but researching for the post, found out the obvious: it’s peroxide. This means that it contained a recipe to damage your hair after a while… Anyway, who cares about that when you are a tween?

I really thought that Sun In was resting in peace along with other 80s fads (that dirty blonde and bad perm look…) since there are so many modern techniques to lighten your colour. Surprise! It is still available and you can purchase at Amazon, now with improved formulas, containing lemon extract and nourishing oils. But I’m sure the fun factor is hidden somewhere in 1990!